Hard water is water with a lot of dissolved calcium and magnesium. It leaves white scale on faucets and kettles, makes soap harder to lather, and can shorten the life of water heaters. But it is not a health risk: the US Geological Survey says hardness “is not a health concern, but it can be a nuisance,” and the World Health Organization has never set a health-based limit for it. There is also no federal drinking water standard for hardness.
This guide covers how hardness is measured, how to read the numbers in mg/L and grains per gallon, and what to know about water softeners, including how much sodium they add.
What makes water “hard”
Rain is naturally soft. As it soaks through soil and rock, especially limestone and other carbonate rock, it dissolves minerals. Calcium and magnesium are the two that matter for hardness.
USGS notes that hard water is most common in the east-central and western United States, a pattern that follows carbonate aquifers and aquifers with high dissolved solids. That’s a regional picture only. Hardness can vary a lot from one city to the next, and even between wells on neighboring properties, so check your own utility’s report or test your well.
How hardness is measured
Hardness is usually reported in one of two units.
Milligrams per liter (mg/L) as calcium carbonate. This is what USGS and most water quality reports use. “As calcium carbonate” means the calcium and magnesium are converted to an equivalent amount of calcium carbonate so they can be added together. One mg/L is the same as one part per million (ppm).
Grains per gallon (gpg). This is the unit water softener companies tend to use. One grain per gallon equals 17.1 mg/L (ppm), the conversion used by the Connecticut Department of Public Health.
The USGS hardness scale
| Category | mg/L as calcium carbonate | Approx. grains per gallon |
|---|---|---|
| Soft | 0 to 60 | 0 to 3.5 |
| Moderately hard | 61 to 120 | 3.6 to 7.0 |
| Hard | 121 to 180 | 7.1 to 10.5 |
| Very hard | more than 180 | more than 10.5 |
The mg/L categories are from USGS. Grain values are converted at 17.1 mg/L per grain and rounded.
To find your number, look in your utility’s annual water quality report (sometimes listed as “total hardness” or under secondary or unregulated parameters). Our guide on how to read your water quality report shows where to look. If it isn’t listed, call the utility; most can tell you. Well owners can add hardness to a lab test, and inexpensive test strips give a reasonable estimate.
Is hard water bad for your health?
No, according to the agencies that have looked at it.
- USGS says hardness is not a health concern, and notes that WHO considers drinking water a possible source of dietary calcium and magnesium, which may matter for people who get little of these minerals from food.
- WHO has not set a health-based guideline value for hardness. Its current Guidelines for Drinking-water Quality fact sheet says hardness is not of health concern at levels found in drinking water, though it may affect how acceptable the water is to consumers. WHO’s earlier guidelines noted that hardness above about 200 mg/L can cause scale in distribution systems.
- EPA does not regulate hardness. It is not on the list of primary (health) standards or secondary (aesthetic) standards, and Connecticut’s health department states there is “no recognized standard or maximum contaminant level for hardness.”
So the reasons to care about hard water are practical: cleaning, appliances and plumbing.
What hard water actually does
USGS describes the main effects:
- Soap scum and more soap. Calcium reacts with soap to form scum, so you need more soap or detergent for hands, hair and laundry.
- Scale. Heating hard water deposits calcium carbonate. Scale builds up in water heaters, kettles, coffee makers and pipes, which can raise heating costs, reduce water heater efficiency, shorten equipment life, and over time narrow pipes and reduce pressure.
- Spots on dishes. Mineral residue leaves spots or film on glasses.
None of these mean your water is unsafe. If white crust is your only complaint, you are dealing with hardness, not contamination. (If your water is cloudy, discolored or smells odd, see why tap water smells or tastes strange and cloudy, brown or discolored tap water.)
Water softeners: how they work and what they add
Most home water softeners use ion exchange. Water passes through a resin that grabs calcium and magnesium and releases sodium (or potassium) in their place. When the resin is full, the unit “regenerates” by flushing it with a salt brine.
How much sodium a softener adds
The sodium added depends on how hard your water was to begin with. Connecticut’s Department of Public Health puts it this way: for every 100 mg/L of hardness removed, about 46 mg/L of sodium is added. That works out to roughly 8 mg/L of sodium per grain per gallon removed.
A worked example: water at 10 grains per gallon (about 171 mg/L) softened to near zero would gain roughly 79 mg/L of sodium. Drinking 2 liters of that water would add roughly 160 mg of sodium per day.
For most people, that is a small share of daily sodium. But EPA has a non-enforceable advisory for people on very low sodium diets (500 mg a day): it recommends drinking water sodium not exceed 20 mg/L for them. EPA separately suggests 30 to 60 mg/L for taste reasons. If you’re on a sodium-restricted diet for heart, kidney or blood pressure reasons, ask your doctor before drinking softened water.
Ways to limit the sodium
Connecticut’s guidance offers a few options:
- Use potassium chloride instead of salt. This minimizes added sodium; potassium is added instead (about 76 mg/L per 100 mg/L of hardness removed). People with kidney problems or on certain medications should ask a doctor about extra potassium.
- Soften only what needs it. Connecticut suggests treating only hot water and boiler feed lines, since there’s no need to soften water for flushing toilets. Some homes also plumb one cold kitchen tap to bypass the softener for drinking and cooking.
- Use reverse osmosis for drinking water. CDC notes RO systems can remove sodium, along with calcium and magnesium.
Don’t over-soften
Connecticut also warns that water softened to zero hardness can be corrosive to metal plumbing and can etch glassware. A properly sized softener set to the hardness your test shows avoids this. Some states also regulate where softener brine can be discharged; Connecticut, for example, prohibits sending it to a septic system.
Do you need a softener at all?
Not for safety. It’s a cost and convenience decision. Connecticut’s health department has historically recommended softening above 150 ppm (8.8 grains per gallon).
Non-softener options include descaling kettles and coffee makers regularly, using detergents formulated for hard water, and keeping water heater temperatures moderate (Connecticut suggests below 140°F to reduce scale).
Note that a standard carbon pitcher or faucet filter is not designed to remove hardness. Filters address different problems; see reverse osmosis vs. carbon filters for what each type does.
Bottom line
Hard water is about minerals, not contaminants. Find your hardness in mg/L or grains per gallon, compare it to the USGS scale, and decide whether scale and soap use bother you enough to treat it. If you soften, size the system to your water, consider potassium chloride or an unsoftened drinking tap, and talk to your doctor if you’re on a low-sodium diet.
To see what else is in your water, find your utility by ZIP code.
Sources
- USGS: Hardness of Water
- WHO: Hardness in Drinking-water
- WHO: Hardness chemical fact sheet, Guidelines for Drinking-water Quality (PDF)
- Connecticut Department of Public Health: Hardwater-Softeners Facts and Issues (PDF)
- EPA: Drinking Water Advisory: Consumer Acceptability Advice and Health Effects Analysis on Sodium (PDF)
- CDC: About Home Water Treatment Systems